FAQs - OLI NATURA® HS Profiöl COLOUR
Does the color effect look the same on all types of wood?
No. How a color oil looks depends largely on the wood's natural base tone and the sanding. The same color shade may look different on oak than on light pine or spruce. The coarser the sanding, the more intense the color effect may be. Therefore, test the color shade beforehand on the original wood with the intended sanding.
Why don't you offer a color fan for HS Profiöl COLOUR?
A color fan shows how a color shade looks on the wood used for the fan - it may look different on your wood. The wood species, natural color, and sanding affect the result. That's why we offer samplers: You can test the color shade directly on your wood with the intended sanding.
Which color shade creates the lightest possible wood look?
Light Ivory comes closest among the HS Profiöl COLOUR shades to a light, minimally enhanced wood look. For a more pronounced raw wood effect, OLI NATURA® Scandic-Oil CLASSIC or hardwax oil Cotton White are suitable. Test the color effect beforehand on the original wood.
Does pigmented oil protect against darkening?
The pigments can slow down light-induced color changes in the wood. However, they do not completely prevent natural darkening.
Can I mix different color shades?
Yes. The HS Profiöl COLOUR shades can be mixed with one another. The color effect can be toned down by mixing with the pigment-free HS Profiöl NATUR from the same product range. Mix enough material for the entire surface and test the result beforehand on the original wood.
Can I use HS Profiöl COLOUR on lacquered or previously oiled wood?
Film-forming old coatings must be completely removed so that the oil can penetrate the wood. Check previously oiled surfaces for compatibility and sufficient absorbency. If necessary, sand down to the raw wood.
How do I prepare the wood?
The surface must be dry, clean, evenly sanded, and thoroughly dust-free. For furniture, OLI NATURA® recommends final sanding up to a maximum of P180, and P120 for stairs and floors. Pigments can significantly highlight sanding imperfections.
Do I need to stir the oil before and during application?
Yes. Pigments can settle. Stir or shake the oil thoroughly before use and stir it again during prolonged application. Mix the contents of containers from different batches beforehand to avoid color differences.
Is one application of HS Profiöl COLOUR sufficient?
Yes. When applied correctly, one coat is sufficient for the initial treatment. The key is to saturate the wood evenly and polish out all excess oil completely. If necessary, the surface can be repolished the following day with a small amount of oil and a white pad.
How do I remove excess oil without removing the color again?
Work the oil evenly into the wood. Then polish out the excess with a white pad until the surface looks even and feels dry to the touch. Remove larger amounts of oil beforehand.
What should I do if I have applied significantly too much oil and it is still wet?
If there is a lot of oil on the surface after the application time, firmly scrape off the excess with a foam-rubber squeegee before polishing. Then polish with a white pad until no excess oil is visible and the surface feels dry to the touch.
How do I remove excess oil that has already dried?
Carefully work on the excess oil with a green, mildly abrasive pad and thoroughly remove the loosened residue. If the oil has already fully cured, sanding may be necessary. Then check the color effect. If further treatment is necessary, apply HS Professional Oil COLOUR thinly in the original shade and polish it out completely. Test the procedure beforehand in an inconspicuous area.
What should I bear in mind with oil-soaked cloths and pads?
They can self-ignite due to heat buildup. After use, soak them completely in water and then leave them to dry spread out outdoors. Avoid heat buildup.
When can I walk on an oiled floor again?
Without hardener, the surface can be walked on carefully after about 24 hours and will be fully cured after about 5–7 days. With hardener, it cures faster. Protect the surface from water and heavy use until it has fully cured.
When may I damp-clean the surface?
Only after it has fully cured. After that, you can clean the surface with OLI NATURA® wood soap using a damp, not wet, method as needed.
Why does the oiled surface look blotchy or streaky?
Possible causes include uneven sanding, differences in the wood's absorbency, pigments that have not been stirred sufficiently, or residual excess oil. Ensure even sanding, stir the oil thoroughly, and polish the surface out carefully.
Can I subsequently even out a blotchy oiled surface?
As long as excess oil remains on the surface, careful polishing may help. After curing, the correction depends on the cause. If the color has penetrated the wood unevenly, the surface may need to be sanded evenly again. Test the procedure first in an inconspicuous area.
How do I care for a color-oiled surface?
For regular cleaning, OLI NATURA® wood soap is suitable. OLI NATURA® Wood Refresher can be used for a color-neutral refresh. If the color also needs refreshing, use the color originally applied.
When should the surface be refreshed?
When the protective effect decreases, not according to a fixed schedule. Clean the surface first and let it dry completely. Choose the refresh treatment based on whether you only want to maintain the oil protection or also add color.
Can I refresh a color-oiled surface with the same color?
Yes. Clean the surface and let it dry completely. Use the color originally applied from HS Professional Oil COLOUR. For a thinner, pigmented maintenance oil, you can mix two parts OLI NATURA® Oil Thinner with one part colored HS Professional Oil. Apply the mixture thinly and remove all excess. Test the color effect beforehand in an inconspicuous area.
Can I re-oil only worn areas with color?
Yes, localized touch-up is possible. Clean the area and use the color originally applied. If the area has been sanded, the freshly sanded wood may absorb more pigment and initially look different from the surrounding area. Test the touch-up beforehand. If a noticeable color difference remains visible, treating the entire continuous surface may be necessary.
Do I have to sand before re-oiling?
Not necessarily. When refreshing an intact, oiled surface, thorough cleaning is the first priority. Sanding may be necessary in the case of damage, stains, or troublesome care product residues. The condition of the surface is decisive.
Can I apply a different, darker color to a color-oiled surface?
This is only possible to a limited extent. Previously oiled wood absorbs less oil and pigment. The new color interacts with the existing color and may turn out uneven. Test the result on the existing surface. For a targeted, even color change, sand down to the raw wood and re-oil.
Can I lighten a dark-oiled surface with a lighter color oil?
Generally not by simply applying another coat of oil. The dark color remains visible; light pigments may appear patchy. To achieve a lighter color, the existing treatment must be sanded down to the raw wood. Then create a test area.
